是年伊始,便因公事私誼頻頻造訪曼谷與香江。湄南水濱旖旎婉轉,港島流風雅緻,曾經新冠惡疫於日常漸步正軌中被淡忘。議及香江旅宿心水,身旁友人總熱切討論尖沙咀瑰麗酒店(Rosewood Hong Kong)旗艦奢侈手筆,或是金鐘傍山奕居酒店(Upper House)體驗獨樹一幟,更有不少四季酒店 (Fourseasons Hong Kong)愛好者,情鐘維港美景。然筆者長年訪港,若無他由,總下榻始業於 1963 年,以傳奇服務,風華無雙,廣受名流時人青睞的香港文華東方酒店 (Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong)。
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圖:香港文華東方酒店遠景與六十鑽禧紀念叮叮車
關於文華東方酒店雙聯品牌自上世紀七零年代起因緣璧合並成為亞洲傳奇服務標竿,乃是酒店迷津津樂道軼事,筆者不在此多贅述。正如關凱文所著《瘋狂亞洲富豪》小說中所描繪的港島社交盛景,香港文華東方酒店在港人心中永是不朽文華(The Mandarin),後起新晉難以企及,曼谷文華東方酒店仍是湄南河畔傳奇東方(The Oriental),地位超群絕倫。
有別於隔海九龍半島酒店 (The Peninsula) 濃厚十九世紀殖民與仿歐風尚,香港文華東方酒店自開幕以來便冶融華洋,體現大班眼中二十世紀原生華埠風貌。自開幕以降,大廳招牌黑金雲石便永久懸展由好萊塢傳奇藝術總監 Don Ashton 所蒐羅的道光朝箔金木刻壁飾,另一隅則有酒店招牌 — 描金嶺南古扇,面繪百人宮廷筵宴,供遊人休憩片刻或一瞥名流明星之餘,能更深刻感受港島人、史、藝、文薈萃。
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圖:六十鑽禧
倉促結束遠距電話會議,還無暇欣賞港島風情,酒店派車即駛過干諾道中(Connaught Road Central)紅毯鋪地大門 ,左轉泊於酒店後。見到副總經理百忙中率領所有熟悉團隊成員門外遠迎,倍感親切。在眾人陪同簇擁下步入酒店,鑽禧酒會慶祝陳設幾已完成,其中最為吸睛莫過於大廳中央由 Sir Peter Blake 主導的 AI 裝置藝術,機器手臂持毛筆勾勒出一眼可辨由建築師 John Howarth 設計的酒店立面,待酒會開始後,更將繪上數百位受邀扇粉面孔。
圖 :六十鑽禧巧克力塔
自收到六十鑽禧邀請之初,酒店便著手完善一切體驗:無論是機場禮賓接待,入住後快速衣物整燙,或是頂樓理容服務安排,細密入微。向晚與文華閣(The Mandarin Lounge)同仁閒聊何以成為忠實扇粉且長年鍾情不衰,皆因時任南華早報(Southern China Post)副總編故友曾一同日日文華用餐。卻不想返房更衣時竟多收到房務同仁送上一份早報首頁彩印鑽禧賀語,如此用心,由衷令人動容。
酒會開始之初,便聽聞餐點安排費盡酒店團隊心思;二樓快船廊(Clipper Lounge) 自助餐台奢侈,庫克香檳暢飲,伊比利火腿隨切不說,還有乳豬燒味,生蠔與魚子醬;餅房(The Cake Shop)準備了各色造型別致又可口的甜食與冰淇淋;而咖啡廳(Cafe Causette)搖身全面變裝為夜總會,烤鴨與叻沙飄香。
圖:莫文蔚(左一) 文華東方酒店集團全球總裁Mr. Laurent Kleitman(左二) 譚玉燕(中) 楊紫瓊(右一) 香港文華東方酒店總經理Mr.Greg Liddell 星光璀璨
猶記五十金禧,眾多國際名人扇粉皆訪港致意,也是自千禧年名人扇粉廣告推出後的一次高潮。此次六十鑽禧,樂池旁期待著是否可一睹張曼玉或是 Stanley Tucci 風采,遠處紅毯另一端一陣騷動,在賓客驚呼聲中迎來了雍容又隨和的奧斯卡影后楊紫瓊,以及名人扇粉裡的巨星莫文蔚與設計師譚燕玉,連袂慶賀文華鑽禧,讓充滿時人名流的酒店大廳氣氛更加歡騰。六十載春秋,成就文華東方酒店傳奇,也澱積了文化深厚與絕倫風格感動每一位扇粉。
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圖:姓名縮寫紀念房卡
縱使初夜未央,待三位超新星名人扇粉離去,也忖思該回房將息,畢竟抵港前也是工作馬不停蹄。踽踽步入寢室,夜床服務才是最大驚喜,酒店特意安排了鑽禧紀念袖扣與複製折扇,更準備了大廳細木雕屏紋樣的榛果巧克力磚與瑪德蓮與玫瑰醬。對於忠實扇粉來說,沒有比如此安排更令人心滿意足了,更超越了許多近期流行的花俏服務,好比在枕頭套上繡姓名縮寫者流。
圖:耽溺不已的浸浴體驗
尊重並透過細微處體察賓客需求,提供適恰且充滿格調的服務,這是文華東方酒店超群出眾的秘訣。筆者曾深夜緊急透過客房服務完美解決果醬、蛋撻等禮品需求,抑或是細小偏好被體貼,如夜床改置氣泡水或是提前準備浸浴體驗,還是慶賀場合賓客至交總是被悉心款待。每一份用心入微,都成就文華東方品牌令人在旅途中著迷神往與無理偏愛。
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圖:Mr. Michael Groll (左) Mr. Greg Liddell (右)
正如總經理 Greg Liddell 懇切言及酒店與集團品牌如何珍視、尊重賓客與同仁,並將如斯關懷化為酒店文化養分。「關於香港文華東方酒店以及集團獨到之處,在於傳承與文化,令每一位同仁皆充滿自信,並以此感動賓客。而關於創新,我們咸信在傳統中突破,比之大刀闊斧變革,更能另扇粉驚艷。」,而副總經理 Michael Groll 更補充道:「酒店傳統透過千日里酒吧(The Chinnery)復舊如舊工法延續,令熟客心安,也讓年輕扇粉領略文華仕紳格調。而二十三樓文華閣結合扇粉服務、餐飲與會議,書寫屬於香港文華東方的全新篇章。」
展望未來十載,曾執掌過曼谷文華東方與馬德里文華東方酒店,經歷非凡的總經理深信度過六十芳華的香港文華東方酒店,以人本為經,文化為緯,終成為旅人心中泊宿港島首選。
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Hong Kong, the hub
圖:美好時光交錯盡在香港文華東方
Since the very beginning of the year, as the COVID pandemic finally reaches a benign new chapter and threatens no longer the right of mobility, the waterfront of Hong Kong and the riverside of Bangkok have lured me back for business and amical sojourns. The whispers at my usual trotter tete-a-tete often breathe names of the grandiose and the grande-dames whenever I return from my dash.
Hong Kong always inspires the opinionated zeal: staying in Central or TST has always been THE most important question. The fashionable set prefers the Rosewood Hong Kong or the Upper House for a glance of glam and skips the Central issue. The discerning hotel junkies rave about the stunning harbour view of the Fouseasons Hong Kong or simply stay in the Murray building. Back to the question, I have chosen to reside close to the stature square since 2010s, my address can only be the peerless Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, the exceptional grande-dame on the island.
The Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, or simply the Mandarin to locals, has been the synonym to the state of the art hospitality and the preferred backdrop for local socialites and global celebrities, precisely depicted in the 2015 best-seller satire fiction China Rich Girlfriend by Kwan, since its opening in the autumn of 1963. The legends behind the Oriental Bangkok merger in seventies never fail to fascinate, and the famed fan logo was coined in eighties together with these two grande-dames completely rebranded in 1985, exactly my natal year.
It was love at first sight when I first viewed the intricate, fine Daoguang reign glided panels that was sourced by Don Ashton and cladded in the lobby. The sinology theatricality continued as I walked past the iconic antique Canton fan and ascended the opulent black marble staircase to the mezzanine floor for the Cafe Causette. The Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong resorts to the contemporary Chinoiserie style, and delivers the true Taipan aesthetic of the Far East and exudes the rich culture of Hong Kong; it simply eclipses the imperialist grandeur of the Peninsula hotel, and it marks the naissance of the proper island society.
Diamond Jubilee
圖:由 Sir Peter Blake 主導的 AI 裝置藝術
Hush up a senseless con-call with some pompous corporate representatives, I realise I am whisked off to the Charter road entrance by the hotel chauffeur as the limousine drives past by the Connaught road facade. The Mercedes pools by soon after a left turn, and there I am welcomed again by the hotel manager Michael Groll who leads the entire concierge awaiting right at the gate. Ushered by the Mandarin family into the lobby, the FANtastic theme Diamond Jubilee celebration decoration is almost completed.
In the centre of the lobby, a gigantic robotic arm powered by AI is in action on a 5-meter tall canvas, portraying the recognisable hotel facade designed by the late architect John Howarth. An audacious installation mediating the vision of Sir Peter Blake shall impress all the invited guests tonight, and their faces will be photographed and painted on the canvas to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the beloved Mandarin hotel.
Since I have received the invitation from the dedicated team for the jubilee soiree, a full array of services were offered to ensure a perfect celebration experience: chaperoned airport arrival at 2pm, assuredly; hair salon grooming appointment at 4pm, certainly; swift garment pressing at 5pm, absolutely. At 6pm, the senior staff member of the Mandarin lounge pours me the cocktail suit matching evening drink:Coke Zero, and then shows me the cover page of the Southern China Morning Post with pride.
I start to recall how my fandom begins. It is a serendipitous whim to not succumb to breakfast making before sending off my late first partner to the SCMP editorial office. Instead, we dine at the Cafe Causette for breakfast in a Capote style. Ever since, the Mandarin becomes the shining beacon for a young man and lights up his lifelong passion to revere the excellence of hospitality.
The celebration begins punctual before 7pm. Dressy guests arriving on the red carpet are welcomed by the general manager, Greg Liddell, at the main entrance, and then ushered to the stunning AI empowered installation with champagne offered. As guests journey inward, at the end of the staircase to the Clipper lounge, the stellar chef, Richard Ekkebus, is there to greet and ensure a palatable evening. Sumptuous caviar fountain, fresh oysters, free-flow Krug brut NV, and crispy suckling pig are the Mandarin’s treat tonight. The Cafe Causette is transformed into a disco for delish Peking duck, late night laksa and posh mahjong game.
圖:Café Causette 搖身成為娛樂大廳
It is about fans. The soiree warms up en vogue as starlet fans pose for photographers, and I overheard gossips of fellow guests about the celebrity fans arriving soon. The celebrity fan guest list has been the best kept secret, and for a while it seems that Maggie Cheung and Stanley Tucci could likely be the stellar fans to grace the festive occasion.
At 8pm, the crowded cocktail reception boils up in a swoon when Michelle Yeoh, Vivienne Tam and Karen Mok land on the red carpet all at once. It is almost like a reverie, glamorous and gorgeous, to see the Oscar awarded diva waving to all the guest next to Greg Liddell with the touching address, “Tonight is a celebration for Hong Kong, and we are here to pay tribute to our original flagship, our wonderful colleagues and to you, our loyal guests – here’s to another sixty!“
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圖:扇粉袖扣
The epic celebrity fan supernova continues to beacon even if Michelle, Vivienne, and Karen leave graciously early in the applause of the crowd. The evening is still young and tender, but I am inclined to retire back in my suite, the heavenly retreat, after a long day of boulot and hype. I also long for a solid meal, in-room dining here never fails me, and the 60th anniversary exclusive choice on the menu is simply tempting. Who can resist a perfect Scotch egg?
圖:滿心期待六石鑽禧
A real surprise awaits when I enter my bedchamber to unwind, a pair of the diamond jubilee cuff links and a wondrous Canton fan replica are placed on the evening tray, an accolade for a fan. On the console table, I notice a folded SCMP front page, a future heirloom to mark my youth and commemorate my special bond with the hotel. Then I gulp the sparkling water on the nightstand, it is my preferred evening amenity always prepared accordingly from the Oriental to the Mandarin.
At any Mandarin Oriental hotel, every single fan is cherished in a genuine and detailed manner. A true luxurious experience does not always involve certain ostentatious but frivolous treatments, such as embroidery of initials on a pillowcase or exotic amenities with rocket high carbon emission, it is a joyous homecoming, about being comprehended and treated with respect and care.
Incomparable heritage
The gorgeous sunlight falls on the massive canvas on which the faces of 300 guest fans chosen and collaged by Sir Peter Blake gleam in the lobby. Sixty fantastic years achieve a true legend and a beloved institution. To the question how this crown jewel of the Island society shall dazzle the future generations and be the centre of social fabric, the general manager Greg Liddell and the hotel manager Michael Groll shares their view.
“The rare heritage and legacies of the Mandarin and the Oriental instill the pride in our colleagues and transcend through the group. We endeavor to preserve the traditions and continue to innovate at the same time for our clientele, it is about balancing the rich culture and the trend in a respectful way.”, says Greg Liddell.
“Central Hong Kong is where the past and present, the tradition and innovation coexist, such as the Chinnery and our new offering, the Mandarin Lounge. The demand for experiential luxury goes beyond the standard ideas of luxury, and discerning travelers are seeking for authenticity, exclusivity, and personalized treatment.”, Michael Groll adds on.
原文出處: 約瑟夫旅宿畫報
圖片來源: 約瑟夫旅宿畫報
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