曼谷酒店 The Siam：獨具一格的黑白兩色裝修、上萬件古董收藏、體貼至極的賓客服務，是亞洲獨立奢華酒店翹楚！

年過而立以來，每逢凜冬時分，總嚮往暹羅陽光璀璨與印支異邦風情，筆者尤愛湄南河濱旖旎，游船若織似畫，不負東方威尼斯美名。

延伸閱讀：泰國曼谷、芭達雅周邊 9 間水上市場攻略！「這裡」擁有100多家攤位，能品嚐道地小吃以及體驗按摩，絕對是東南亞旅遊最佳首選！

    

湄南

圖：The Siam 酒店黑白幻境

乘湯湯水路遊覽曼谷一向是筆者心頭最好，不單可欣賞粼粼波光之上鄭王廟與大皇宮盛景，更可巧妙避免尖峰時刻市區塞車不便，無論是水上公交、私家船舶或是船宴巡遊，湄南巡航皆是快意。而今歲多次造訪曼谷，得幸回回能從文華東方酒店碼頭登上 The Siam 酒店時髦古雅的接駁柚木游艇，逆流駛向一處心往謐境，彼端總有多年知交款待相候。

綜觀世界五十最佳酒店清單，The Siam 酒店儼然是一眾評審心中亞洲獨立奢華酒店翹楚。自興業擘畫始 ，Sukosol 家族品味超群，以獨具慧眼延請知名美籍旅泰建築師 Bill Bensley 與泰籍地景師 Jirachai Rengthing ，以上世紀二十年代裝飾藝術風格為經，緯織拉瑪五世暹羅世族收藏與品味，更獨樹一格打造熱帶溫室造景，自2012年開幕始，便名動東亞，艷驚四方。

    

傳奇

圖：接待處綠蕨蓊鬱

Sukosol 家族雅好古董收藏，多位成員在泰國流行樂壇與藝壇享有盛名，並因緣跨足酒店業堪為佳話。關於酒店業主與推手Krissada Sukosol-Clapp 品味識見不凡，建築師 Bill Bensley 回憶道：「無論是古董行或是拍賣會上，Krissada 總與我競收同一件藏品。也因此著手設計 The Siam 酒店之初，便忖思如何透過建物風貌展現家族博物館概念，並能陳展業主惠藏兩萬五千件私人古玩，我們還曾經在湄南河上巡遊數小時，只為尋找三百餘年柚木古屋更新並移往酒店現址。」。

關於 The Siam 酒店如何在 Dusit 區濱河矗立，皆緣起 2005 年，曾於現址上廣受名流遊客喜愛的海鮮餐廳租約到期，而 Krissada Sukosol-Clap 幾番思量後決定重新整地，擘畫 Sukosol 家族飯店集團中的旗艦店，並登門委由 Bill Bensley 操刀設計。關於 Bensley 事務所及團隊相當推崇地說道：「Bill 深諳原創設計風格的重要性，我則是著眼細節，他與設計團隊完全了解如何完美兩全，成就曠世奇作。」

圖：The Siam 酒店中筆者最喜歡的安靜角落

Bill Bensley 與 Jirachai Rengthing 向來以大膽風格鋪排異國想像著稱，無論是早年四季金三角度假營地或是晚近瑰麗龍坡邦渡假村，皆能透過強烈撞色與古董選用體現其美學系統。The Siam 酒店則一改外揚，翻玩美好年代想像，大量採用黑白兩色馬賽克、鐵件圍欄，與雲石，綴以復古鏡面，遂成為業主古董收藏陳列最好也最富戲劇性的舞台。

圖：酒店芳療中心 The Opium

而 The Siam 酒店能如此令人神迷心醉，不單因裝修設計煉化黑白兩色純粹，完美演繹裝飾藝術風格典雅輪煥，與主樓中央水台芭蕉碧葉魔幻熱帶蜃景，憑添殖民時代想像，更得幸於傑出酒店經理人 Nick Downing 傾注其產業浸淫數十載歷練，卓絕心血，遂成就湄南水濱一方勝景耽溺，與曼谷文華東方酒店，各有擅場，並駕齊驅。

Nick Downing 為千禧年後中南半島傳奇酒店人，曾出任印支馳名渡假村 Hotel de la paix 與 W Resort Samui 總經理，擅長打造多元體驗，揉合在地風貌。此君謙和爾雅，氣度非凡，總是身著一襲素衫送往迎來，事必躬親，筆者與他結識近十載，緣起清邁 The Chedi 酒店，大小瑣事總是能完美鏢託，見識他過人管理才華與領導能力。

圖：充滿熱帶風情果盤

不單賓客與業主對他譽許有加，同樣也是筆者知交與傑出酒店人 Christian de Boer 曾不掩盛讚之情說道：「Nick Downing 人品可敬，能力超群，是超出你我可想像的最佳酒店人。」

圖 Mr. Nick Downing (左) Mr. Krissada Sukosol-Clap (右)

而談及酒店與產業展望，無論是湄南水濱後起新秀動態，抑或是河畔別墅房型與酒吧新裝進度，Nick Downing 總是眼神熠熠，充滿觸動人心的熱情。 憶及五月春末造訪話敘時，他與筆者分享道：「The Siam 酒店規模雖小，但著眼非凡體驗，跳脫傳統酒店制式限制，故能為賓客提供難忘回憶，並在心中留下深刻印象。」

延伸閱讀：泰國「絕美木屋」咖啡店 Boobun Pocket：在恬靜的住宅之間，品嚐自家烘培的麵包與咖啡香

     

絕塵

圖：宛如私宅博物館的會議室

時值九月暑熱，午膳用過可口西柚與胡椒葉沙拉，從濱河餐廳 Chon Thai 步出，正忖思是否移往酒店另一端靜謐茶室，或是他處暫歇，再熟悉不過的禮賓同仁好似讀心一般引領我穿過林徑與遊廊，最終推開布滿古玩的閱覽室大門道：「總經理遣我來接待，您可以在此安心會議，我稍後幫您準備零卡可樂。」

服務細微入裡如斯，恰如酒店處處緬梔花樹栽種，暗香浮動，令人難忘。然而筆者開幕之初，下榻慶生卅年時，體驗遠不及今時：服務花俏有餘但錯落百出，套房內空調有異聲，加之寢具不諧，一夜燠熱難眠，隔日早早退房，落荒而去。

圖：緬梔花樹徑暗香浮動

物換星移，隨著現任總經理接掌，The Siam 酒店終於綻放閃耀光澤，也成為造訪曼谷下榻首選。筆者咸信店如其人，柒載流光決不辜負，The Siam 酒店細潤服務與絕倫體驗，令人津津樂道，緣故不外反映總經理心性端方，且事無巨細皆勤謹親為，方能啟迪與引領團隊。酒店由名家操刀，更是憑添無上魅力。而業主視角清晰，與設計、團隊三方互信無礙，更是箇中重要關鍵。

薄暮時分，從主樓音樂室遠眺湄南河無限嫵媚金燦，而不遠碼頭之上，總經理 Nick Downing 率領管家們揮別艇上巡遊賓客。何以獨立酒店能成為我心水最愛，不落窠臼，不循俗套，以誠相待，無窮魅力盡顯於此。

延伸閱讀：在房間內就可以看到大海！泰國蘇梅島 8 間海景 Villa 推薦，私人沙灘、無邊際泳池、海景餐廳，享受屬於你的海島之旅！

     

The Siam, an imaginarium of high design and service excellence

圖：The Siam 酒店碼頭夜景

Wintertime in Taipei has never been too harsh, yet I always desire a Siamese sojourn and yearn for the Indochinese sunshine and inspirational exoticism before the winter solstice. The languorous riverside of the Chao Phraya always summons me back. Literature by Swain and Duras has been my best travel company as I lounge in the afternoon with the view of all the vessels painting the vibrant city daily.

     

Mekong

圖：酒店 Villa 設古董鏡魅力無限

The mighty Chao Phraya River has been the main vessel for the Khun Thep since the very beginning of the civilization. Tired of the bustling traffic in central Bangkok, boat, an heirloom from the Ayutthaya era, becomes the vehicle of choice for me. Pier hopping tethering the Grab app pushes open the splendid underworld of Bangkok, and the river banks are the portal to the past and the future of the metropolis. It is such a bliss to hire a swift long-tail boat and embark from the glittering Grand Palace downstream to the Taksin in peak hours, circumscribing the infamous traffic on the Sarthon.

圖：酒店馳名 Chon Thai 餐廳三百餘年古屋重綻美麗

Or I may board my favorite yacht leaving from the Oriental pier and travel upstream to a Siamese sanctuary for a luncheon. No one can resist such a sail on this stylish and classy teak ferry flying the flag emblazoned a visible white S at the stern. Never can I say no to the temptation of some chilled towels and beverage in the front deck with the exceptional vista of the Wat Arun at noon. As the emblematic yacht sails past the mid-century style Krung Thon bridge and slows down, the joyous journey approaches to its end, and there erects the gem of the Mekong carving from the onyx and nephrite, it is the Siam.

圖：Bill Bensley 采裝飾藝術風格，匯貫東西

The Siam is undoubtedly the hallmark among the exuberant designs led by starchitect Bill Bensley and, in his own words, it is a unique animal: part hotel, part museum, part resort. Commissioned by the stellar Sukosol family, this 39 units manor houses the stunning 25,000 antiques, it is destined to be its own kind. The ubiquitous Art Decor theme of the hotel transports guests back to the golden age of Bangkok, the reign of Rama V. And the verdant banana trees in the levelled water feature of the Musee d’Orsay inspired main residence add on an incomparable tropical ambience.

    

Legend

圖：The Siam 服務細膩入裏

Prior to the drafting of the Siam in 2005, when the lease for an acclaimed seafood restaurant was to expire, the Thai pop star owner Krissada Sukosl-Clapp reflected on the future of this prime location in the Dusit once favoured by the dignitaries. A luxurious hotel nuanced by audacious originality and timeless elegance was the choice by pedigree, and Kriss entrusted this ambitious project to the accoladed Bensley Studio. “Bill is entirely original and I love distinct details. Bill and his team understand exactly how to pull these together into a larger work of art”, explains Kissada.

When the two finally met for the future of this Sukosol estate, it was clear that their taste for style clicked. “Long before we started building, Kriss and I went upriver several hours to find these three century-old Thai teakwood houses, which belonged to OSS agent Connie Mangksau. They entertained the likes of Roger Moore, Jackie Kennedy and Henry Ford：it was a no brainer to lovingly renovate them and give them a new home at the Siam “, recalls Bill Bensley. In 2012, the Siam was unveiled and an immediate success, it was the talk of the hoteljunkies and the only match to the iconic Oriental Bangkok.

There are always new luxurious hotels open in the city of angels, but I solely recommend the Siam for an unmatched escapism. The monochromic Art Deco imaginarium envisioned by the Bensleys always allures a visitor. The eclectic family treasure and personal collection of the Sukosols tempt a connoisseur espirit to linger. Nevertheless, the invincible reason for a sojourning is the heartfelt hospitality, a masterful work of art by the legendary hotelier, Nick Downing, who bestows his unparalleled zeal and savoir faire for service excellence and property management upon the Siam. 

Nick Downing is known for weaving locality and creativity into a hospitality-centric community and social fabric. His appointment as the general manager of the Siam in late 2016 is the latest stanza in the saga of this seasoned hotelier, which begins in hotel de la paix in Siem Reap, W retreat in Koh Samui, and Per Aquum in Maldives. The trophy of the Sukosol family irradiates true brilliance in his hands and becomes a real legend. Warm and genuine, Nick Downing always stays in the front together with the team to welcome guests and ensure an impeccable hotel experience.

The cordial acquaintance between the general manager and I began almost a decade ago in the Chedi Chiang Mai. I witnessed how extraordinary leadership guided a team and a famed hotel through troubled water of brand transition. “Nick is such a respectable and gracious person, and possibly the best general manager any hotel can deserve “, once raved about Christian de Boer, another fellow hotelier I have also known and admired.

Always devout to the Siam, Nick Downing speaks passionately about the singularity of the hotel. “It is a rare luxury, the Siam is entirely about an extraordinary experience that probably doesn’t appear on a standardized five-star hotel checklist”, says the general manager, and he continues sharing details of villa renovation and exciting restaurant collaboration with the sparks of true enthusiasm.  

    

Retreat

圖：河景套房寬敞舒適

After a palatable light lunch at the waterfront Chon Thai restaurant, I step out the verdant archway and wonder where to settle my upcoming conference call and craving for sweetness. The spicy savory Yum Som O Gong is a perfect choice for September, the tamarind dressing over the ripe pomelo enlivens my senses and the heat of Thai pepper expels the tropical somnolence. A scoop of ice cream or a soft drink at the tearoom seems to be an adequate treat.

As I ascend the stairs, one of the butlers appears at the landing and chaperones me to the library. “Dr. Joe, I am sent for to lead you to your favorite lounge where you can have your con-call undisturbed, and your Coke Zero is on the way”, says the gentle young man with a revering bow and wai. Such is the paradigm of guest services. All the details matter, and each guest is cherished and comprehended in an individual manner.

Still, my very first sojourn back in 2015 for celebration was a hospitality mare. Signs of tiredness and negligence were obvious, the butler services were pretentious, and the management was in exhaustion. I even did not sleep well owning to the dubious quality linen and malfunctioning ventilation, so I checked out early and wished for no returning. No one could ever believe that I would become a loyal guest with such a favoritism and a trust seven years later.

The complete change of my stance is credited to the extraordinary management and leadership. The architect and the owners shape the deluxe property soma, the general manager and the team breathe the excellent service psyche, yet only the unity of the two achieves a legendary hotel.

“There is no magic bullet, guests can tell” says Nick Downing. Awarded again the best general manager of the year 2023 in Thailand by T+L Asia, he and the stellar Krissada earlier represent the Siam family for the recognition of the World’s 50 Best Hotel award in London.

The sunlight sprinkles golden and soft into the library as I end the call in contentment, and I decide to walk from the main residence back to the riverside in the poignant scent of frangipani blossoms. At the edge of the pier, the decent general manager and the dedicated team wave to the departing guests on the Siam yacht for the soiree. Afterward, Nick walks toward me and offers me a drink, it is all clear to me that I am home.

   

原文出處： 約瑟夫旅宿畫報
圖片來源： 約瑟夫旅宿畫報

    

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